http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ Vintage Tractor Engineer Forums: Recent Posts en Thu, 09 Feb 2012 11:15:24 +0000 http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1468#post-2197 Wed, 08 Feb 2012 18:32:37 +0000 Harry in Ky 2197@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>I don't know how many sources you have tried for help with your hyd. problem, but I just saw a recent post from a fellow Kentuckian( imagine that) on Yesterdays Tractors.com concerning his MM 335 industrial. Perhaps you could try to contact him, he may have some insight for you </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1471#post-2196 Wed, 08 Feb 2012 13:16:24 +0000 Warner 2196@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Hi Nick,<br /> That looks good, so go and just check the timing , pin up flywheel ,take off inspection plate on pump (you will need to have drum ready to collect diesel ) , and view the markings on pump, it should be the slot under G with mark to right, if its not at G, just change ,<br /> Steve in the DVD removed pump driving gear to get a better positions to suit his markings, i found its easy to mark the gear across the centre to the master spline , but its harder to get the 45 deg mark, good luck.<br /> Regards,<br /> Robert </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1471#post-2194 Wed, 08 Feb 2012 02:56:30 +0000 nickf44 2194@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Thanks Robert ... I did exactly what you described using the same VTE DVD for the rebuild but I must still be 1 notch out on the master spline, now I have to figure which way I am out.</p> <p>Regards ... Nick </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1471#post-2193 Wed, 08 Feb 2012 02:39:52 +0000 Warner 2193@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Hi Nick,<br /> I had much the same problem as you, did various remedy but no sucess with alot of help so i got the dvd from VTE did the timing from the dvd and the engine started in first click, if the timing is correct there is very little movement needed to injector pump housing.<br /> The secret is where you slot in the pump driving gear when you are putting it back the master spline inclined towards the engine at an angle of 45 deg from the vertical, you mark the gear across to centre of master spline with a marker and a vertical mark on the housing (a level is use full to mark housing top and bottom) to help you guide pump driving gear.<br /> Regards,<br /> Robert. </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1471#post-2192 Wed, 08 Feb 2012 01:36:39 +0000 nickf44 2192@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Hi Robert<br /> If the timing is out but the tractor seems to start and run ok but lacks full power, would I get enough adjustment to correct this by rotating the injector pump on its 3 bolts. A few days ago I rotated the injector pump towards the block a small amount while it was running and it didn't improve its power performance and when I stopped the tractor and tried to start it again there was a sucking sound from the exhaust and it refused to start. I reset it back to where it was and it started no problems. I was wondering if I rotate the injector pump away from the block if I would be able to get enough adjustment to correct a timing problem or would I have to remove the injector pump and move the gear one notch either left or right.<br /> I will also check the the lift pump as you suggested to make sure that fuel supply is not an issue.</p> <p>Thanks for your help.</p> <p>Regards ... Nick </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1468#post-2191 Tue, 07 Feb 2012 20:53:10 +0000 qminmo61 2191@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Well its been a couple days since I first posted. Perhaps more information is required? From what I could find from an SN search, the Tractor is actually a 1957 355 Industrial. I'd like to know if it has the Teleflow hydraulics or not. Then it would be good to trade messages with anyone who has a similar tractor.</p> <p>Thanks </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1471#post-2190 Tue, 07 Feb 2012 17:45:26 +0000 Warner 2190@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>High Nick,<br /> It looks like your timing is off, you may have to re-time it, make shure you are on cylinder one compression stroke before you pin up flywheel<br /> Could you redo test with bleed screw removed but this time with the starter for a few turns in case the cam is not hitting lift pump lever properly.<br /> Regards,<br /> Robert. </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1471#post-2189 Tue, 07 Feb 2012 13:11:40 +0000 nickf44 2189@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Hi ... I rebuilt my Massey Ferguson 35 / 4 cylinder diesel using the rebuild DVD, but unfortunately it now lacks the original power since I rebuilt it. It was stripped down to bare block and rebuilt with new sleeves, pistons, and rings, etc. Valve grind, new timing chain, etc. I did not replace the injectors as the tractor was running ok before the rebuild.<br /> The tractor starts and runs ok with a small squirt of aerostat, although it does miss from time to time. The exhaust runs perfectly clean under load but still misses intermittently from time to time. Seems to perform ok for general work like road grading and harrowing, but power falls away on any rise in the terrain. Examples of loss of power are very evident when using the slasher in vegetation that it could handle no problems before the rebuild. The power just falls away and I have to engage the clutch to allow the revs to build again before I can continue. My driveway has a rise up to the house and before the rebuild the tractor would accelerate or at least maintain speed in high 1st gear and respond if given more accelerator, now the tractor starts to slow as it hits the slope and does not respond to more accelerator and I now have to change down to continue. I have checked that there is no restriction in the air cleaner, everything including the fuel tank outlet was cleaned and it was fitted with new fuel filters, the filter in the injection pump was cleaned and if you remove the 5/16 AF bleed screw from the injector body and pump the fuel lift lever the fuel shoots out about 6 inches which indicates that it would not appear to starving fuel. It has got me beat and it's very frustrating after the effort of the rebuild.<br /> Any help would be appreciated.<br /> Thanks ... Nick </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1470#post-2186 Mon, 06 Feb 2012 22:15:28 +0000 RSD070 2186@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>I am trying to install an isolator Valve on my 1958 Massey Ferguson TO35. I bought the valve on line. I took off the Hydraulic lift cover and went to put the valve on. The valve does not line up like the lift cover. It sits a little side ways. I can not find any diagrams or information on how this valve looks after being installed. Was wondering if anyone knows how it looks after being installed?<br /> Thank You </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1463#post-2185 Mon, 06 Feb 2012 12:57:24 +0000 admin 2185@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Hi Chris,</p> <p>We sourced the bushes from our local bearing/transmission suppliers. They will be able to order them to size for you.</p> <p>Just from memory (although I'm not certain), I don't think we reamed out the bush on the engine side in the DVD. There is a MF tool for the job (service tool MF 147), which is a parallel reamer. This tool bolts into position so that it keeps straight. As far as i know this tool isn't available unless you can find a second hand one or maybe an MF dealership that has been trading for many years will still have one.</p> <p>It isn't a blind hole though, if you remove the front crankshaft bearing housing then I think it goes straight through. </p> <p>The difficulty is keeping it reamed straight and true. I suppose the other choice is to take it to a precision engineers who should be able to do it on a milling machine - I guess that will be your best option.</p> <p>Sorry that maybe hasn't answered your question perfectly.</p> <p>Ian. </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1469#post-2184 Sun, 05 Feb 2012 21:02:50 +0000 Harry in Ky 2184@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Does anyone know of a starter for the 23C that cranks faster than the original? I'm new to your site , and somehow stumbled onto some earlier posts involving starting issues with the 23C, where I saw a couple mentions about a faster starter. I have an old Allis ED 40 with a 23C that can use all the help I can find. </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1468#post-2183 Sun, 05 Feb 2012 19:26:23 +0000 qminmo61 2183@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Cannot get the 3 pt hitch or loader to work. Anyone have a tractor like this? </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1466#post-2182 Sun, 05 Feb 2012 04:31:19 +0000 mackkid 2182@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Hi Turf cutter<br /> As Rob said the clutch plate is probably stuck to the flywheel<br /> select reverse and tow it forward The wheels will slip till the plate releases<br /> Hold your foot on the clutch while doing this and take the coil wire out<br /> You don't want it starting and running over the tow vehicle!!<br /> When and IF it lets go put it in 4th gear and make it slip to clean up the plate<br /> Hope this works for you<br /> steve </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1466#post-2181 Sun, 05 Feb 2012 01:10:36 +0000 robroykgs379 2181@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Hi Turfcutter,</p> <p>Sounds to me like the clutch is stuck to the flywheel , you could try putting it in gear angd pulling it with another vehicle to break the clutch free , failing that you may have to split the tractor and seperate the clutch that way,</p> <p>Regards Rob </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1465#post-2180 Sat, 04 Feb 2012 02:00:02 +0000 robroykgs379 2180@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Hi Rolf,</p> <p>Yes it is possible but be careful because it is quite heavy,</p> <p>Regards Rob </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1461#post-2179 Fri, 03 Feb 2012 16:00:59 +0000 Anonymous 2179@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Had you the flywheel off ?, if you had the DVD showed to put it back in the exact same position to keep the pin out in cylinder one TDC (17 deg before ). As a schoolboy in the 1960s my dad sent me to a neighbour to tow his dexta that he was after rebuilding the engine with our FE35, during the course of towing for a very long time while looking back i noticed smoke coming out the intake pipe we made an effort to time the pump and low and behold it started with an almost dead battery.<br /> So if you want to do a quick test take the rubber off the inlet air filter and switch on starter and see is it sucking in air if its blowing out your timing is off.<br /> For to reset timing go back and follow the DVD ensuring you are on cylinder one compression stroke and flywheel pinned up , take pump off and check idler gear in the centre of housing that is the crucial setting if you follow the way VTE showed in DVD with the 45deg marking on gear and vertical marking on housing you will be able to get the best setting . Regards, Robert. </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1467#post-2178 Fri, 03 Feb 2012 04:32:05 +0000 Tonya 2178@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Hi folks. I'm new to the forum and Fergies. I've just purchased a 1964 MF35 petrol model. It seems to be in quite good condition. There is however a fair amount of lash in the steering that's all coming from the steering box. I've looked for some sort of adjuster but can't see anything. Is there any adjustment? Thanks and regards, Tony </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1466#post-2177 Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:51:03 +0000 turfcutter 2177@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>I look after a wee tvo fergie for a friend and it will not engage in the gears while running. It will move in and out of the gears when it is not running but as soon as I start it , using the gear stick, it will then not engage any of the gears.. A lot of crunching noise is all you hear when you try to put it in gear. I have looked at the selectors which look fine, there seems to be oil in the gearbox but I am not sure what type was put in , only that it is very black. I am not sure how to adjust the clutch ot cable or if this could even be the problem.. any ideas would be great </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1465#post-2176 Thu, 02 Feb 2012 23:52:00 +0000 rolf 2176@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>does anyone know if it is possible to remove the sump without removing the engine from the gearbox please </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1464#post-2175 Thu, 02 Feb 2012 17:23:58 +0000 Lrbeast110 2175@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Hi,</p> <p>Have started asking about for some oil prices for m y 35 and a lot of suppliers are now saying to use the 15/40 as it can be used in the engine and gearbox.<br /> Is any one running on that now and experienced problems?<br /> I am in northern Spain so weather not much different in the winter just warmer in the summer.<br /> If this oil is wrong what would be the best we have temperatures of -5 to 40 'c </p> <p>My only worry is I asked around (not here) a while back about oil for a Renault tractor and got wrongly advised and now the 3 point won't lift so I have to buy more oil for that.<br /> Buying a 205litre barrel of universal will be cheaper and will run both tractors and my landrover engines.</p> <p>Ta</p> <p>Kev </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1463#post-2174 Wed, 01 Feb 2012 03:00:15 +0000 cdmiller 2174@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Dear VTE,</p> <p>I am currently rebuilding my FE35 ( s/n SDM 131204) and I'm struggling to find new bushings for the oil pump. Do you know where I may be able to get a set from? Also, I was wondering how you reamed out the bush on the engine side of the pump? In your DVD you used an adjustable reamer for the bush on the drive side but the other bush is in a 1/2 blind hole.</p> <p>Any help would be much appreciated.</p> <p>Thank you for the great DVD's and the running of this site.</p> <p>Chris. </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1462#post-2173 Tue, 31 Jan 2012 23:15:27 +0000 Baron von Dirt 2173@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Would anyone have information on how to complete a function test on a 'thermostart' for an MF 35X (FE35)? The tractor is a 1961 with a Perkins diesel. </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1461#post-2172 Mon, 30 Jan 2012 17:03:48 +0000 jajonesy53 2172@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>I recently rebuilt a 23C engine from an FE35... The owner has installed the injector pump and called and said he cannot start the engine and hears a "sucking "sound while cranking the engine. He is wondering if the cam timing could be off but I am sure I timed it according to the DVD (excellent instructions) as I had a computer there when I timed the cam. I would appreciate any suggestions you could provide. Thanks! </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1460#post-2171 Sun, 29 Jan 2012 23:20:21 +0000 Anonymous 2171@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>fabweb,<br /> Put ff30 in google search and you will find some information extra on line, Tony information is spot on.<br /> Regards,<br /> RSC </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1460#post-2170 Sun, 29 Jan 2012 13:24:15 +0000 tony 2170@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>hi there, i believe it is exactly the same as starting a tef 20, (20 diesel). push the brass knob on the side of the gearbox in with your right leg when sitting on the tractor and push the gear leaver fully to the right and forward. this should engage the starter. the leaver wont go forward enough unless the brass knob is fully pushed in, its a safety device. check your batteries to make sure you have current. if the starter engages but dosent turn then you need to check the switch on top of the starter and make sure the lever that engages the starter also presses this switch. if this is ok then you need to check the solinoid switch which has the heavy negative cable from the battery attached to it and another from it to the starter. some of them have a push button on the bottom of them which you can press. you will need someone with you to keep the brass button in and the gear leaver engaged in the start position. good luck. </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1460#post-2169 Sat, 28 Jan 2012 21:36:06 +0000 fabweb 2169@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>just collected a french ferguson FF-30 awaiting instruction book<br /> but if someone could tell me how to turn the engine over i see no key </p> <p>thank you </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1457#post-2168 Thu, 26 Jan 2012 23:17:38 +0000 Anonymous 2168@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Hi There,<br /> Modified Filter at Engine no SJ331143 and future, if you want more details you can e-mail me at<br /> <a href="mailto:robertscoyne@mac.com">robertscoyne@mac.com</a> and i will forward details to you.<br /> Regards,<br /> Robert. </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1457#post-2167 Thu, 26 Jan 2012 14:22:16 +0000 Alont 2167@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>I am sure I have these part numbers, but am wheelchair bound at the moment.</p> <p>A.S.A.P. I will have someone get them and post back.</p> <p>Alont </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1456#post-2166 Wed, 25 Jan 2012 09:18:35 +0000 Norwegian 2166@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Thank you very much!<br /> It really helped a lot!</p> <p>Kristoffer from Norway </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1459#post-2165 Wed, 25 Jan 2012 01:11:00 +0000 robroykgs379 2165@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Hi Mark,</p> <p>I would try Ron Greet tractor breakers in totnes devon they might have something available in stock , i find it strange a Ferguson dealer cannot help you as there are still many multi powers working for a living i would have a look on the internet and try a main ferguson dealership,</p> <p>Hope this is some help,</p> <p>Regards Rob </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1456#post-2164 Wed, 25 Jan 2012 00:57:34 +0000 robroykgs379 2164@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Hi Kristoffer,</p> <p>"engine out job" means removal of engine from tractor in order to replace rear main oil seal on crankshaft, while the engine is removed from tractor it may be advisable to check all crankshaft components, a good workshop manual is a good investment as it will detail all procedures involved with this work,</p> <p>hope this helps,</p> <p>Regards Rob </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1456#post-2163 Wed, 25 Jan 2012 00:22:34 +0000 Norwegian 2163@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Thank you!<br /> Since I am from Norway, I don´t understand what "An engine out job" means. Vould you try to ecsplain it to me please??</p> <p>Kristoffer from Norway </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1459#post-2162 Tue, 24 Jan 2012 18:48:37 +0000 Mark Shepherd 2162@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Can anyone tell me who supplies parts for Multi Power systems as the normal after market suppliers dont seem to be able to help and current MF dealers say the tractor is to old for them to help.</p> <p>I am completly restoring a 1970 MF 135 with Multi Power.</p> <p>Before being stripped down the tractor was stuck in low MP. I have identified the spool valve in the bell housing is solid so I need to replace or fix. The point being is that the MP clutch unit is deep within the geerbox with nothing else wrong with the box so my question is do these clutch units need to be looked at as it is normal for them to require attention which would be alot of work or are they normaly ok..............I am trying not to strip the box down unless I have to.</p> <p>I do intend to replace the pump when I get to it so again is there a view on if I replace the pump and the spool valve should the clutch unit be ok..............Putting the tractor back together just to try this is not a good option for me as it is in many pieces whith much work to do on many other parts before it goes back together and I am trying not to do all the work only to have the box out at a later date.</p> <p>Anyway any help on parts suppliers and info on the above would be of great help</p> <p>Thanks Mark </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1457#post-2161 Mon, 23 Jan 2012 03:58:49 +0000 robroykgs379 2161@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Hi There,</p> <p>Not that im aware off but steve or ian on here will be able to give you a more definitive answer,</p> <p>Regards Rob </p> http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/topic.php?id=1456#post-2160 Mon, 23 Jan 2012 03:56:57 +0000 robroykgs379 2160@http://vintagetractorengineer.com/forums/ <p>Hi Kristoffer,</p> <p>It sounds very like your rear main bearing crankshaft seal has gone and this will only show when engine is running , the reason it doesnt show when you are going down hill is because the oil will be pooling in front of the clutch housing drain hole, im afraid its an engine out job,</p> <p>Regards Rob </p>