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	<title>Comments on: Shaking Hydraulics, Massey Ferguson 165.</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.vintagetractorengineer.com/blog/2008/05/12/shaking-hydraulics-massey-ferguson-165/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.vintagetractorengineer.com/blog/2008/05/12/shaking-hydraulics-massey-ferguson-165/</link>
	<description></description>
	<pubDate>Tue,  6 Jan 2009 07:45:06 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: Ty Tower</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagetractorengineer.com/blog/2008/05/12/shaking-hydraulics-massey-ferguson-165/#comment-3325</link>
		<dc:creator>Ty Tower</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Aug 2008 05:17:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.vintagetractorengineer.com/blog/2008/05/12/shaking-hydraulics-massey-ferguson-35/#comment-3325</guid>
		<description>Probably here is as good a spot as any for this post but if it needs moving please do so.

OIL RECOVERY
My oil had water through it and after 2 weeks standing it had not separated back out.

I cut the bottom from a 44 gallon drum and sat it on bricks with a small fire under . I carefully boiled the bad oil and stirred initially for about 10 minutes until the oil started to boil then let it continue for at most an hour. The water boiled off and the oil was perfect for reuse.

You will get all the wowsers telling you not to do so but as long as you are aware of these three things you should be right.

1/Position the drum so that if it caught fire it could continue to burn out without doing any harm. 

2/Once the moisture starts to boil off keep the fire small to moderate ,do not overheat as if the oil vapour should ignite it will only do so when it gets up to flash point and you should be nowhere near that.

3/If you get a fire up of the oil do not try to douse it with water as you get a massive flare up . See water on oil fires on UTube.

Use common sense re safety of all around you and the reward is beautiful dark oil reuseable and a lot less oil wasted poluting the earth.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Probably here is as good a spot as any for this post but if it needs moving please do so.</p>
<p>OIL RECOVERY<br />
My oil had water through it and after 2 weeks standing it had not separated back out.</p>
<p>I cut the bottom from a 44 gallon drum and sat it on bricks with a small fire under . I carefully boiled the bad oil and stirred initially for about 10 minutes until the oil started to boil then let it continue for at most an hour. The water boiled off and the oil was perfect for reuse.</p>
<p>You will get all the wowsers telling you not to do so but as long as you are aware of these three things you should be right.</p>
<p>1/Position the drum so that if it caught fire it could continue to burn out without doing any harm. </p>
<p>2/Once the moisture starts to boil off keep the fire small to moderate ,do not overheat as if the oil vapour should ignite it will only do so when it gets up to flash point and you should be nowhere near that.</p>
<p>3/If you get a fire up of the oil do not try to douse it with water as you get a massive flare up . See water on oil fires on UTube.</p>
<p>Use common sense re safety of all around you and the reward is beautiful dark oil reuseable and a lot less oil wasted poluting the earth.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Ty Tower</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagetractorengineer.com/blog/2008/05/12/shaking-hydraulics-massey-ferguson-165/#comment-3321</link>
		<dc:creator>Ty Tower</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Aug 2008 19:51:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.vintagetractorengineer.com/blog/2008/05/12/shaking-hydraulics-massey-ferguson-35/#comment-3321</guid>
		<description>On replacement of the pump I found I had to have the bits off as above, except for the oil strainer base piece.I did have some difficulty with the Selectamatic nut but by guiding it a bit at the last point then putting the pins in, right side then left, it started on the thread by hand and I could then tighten it properly. I can see though that you should have the tractor in a position where you are prepared to break it open if you can't get this nut restarted.

I was able to hone the cylinders with a brake cylinder hone for the new rings.

On my Mark 2 pump the pistons could go in two ways and the sides of the square box they are part of has champhered edges on one side . Mine has gone in with the champhers facing the same way but I suspect they should both face either outwards or in . Could someone have a look when they remove one and post here please or does anybody know which is the right way and why ?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>On replacement of the pump I found I had to have the bits off as above, except for the oil strainer base piece.I did have some difficulty with the Selectamatic nut but by guiding it a bit at the last point then putting the pins in, right side then left, it started on the thread by hand and I could then tighten it properly. I can see though that you should have the tractor in a position where you are prepared to break it open if you can&#8217;t get this nut restarted.</p>
<p>I was able to hone the cylinders with a brake cylinder hone for the new rings.</p>
<p>On my Mark 2 pump the pistons could go in two ways and the sides of the square box they are part of has champhered edges on one side . Mine has gone in with the champhers facing the same way but I suspect they should both face either outwards or in . Could someone have a look when they remove one and post here please or does anybody know which is the right way and why ?</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Ty Tower</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagetractorengineer.com/blog/2008/05/12/shaking-hydraulics-massey-ferguson-165/#comment-3097</link>
		<dc:creator>Ty Tower</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 15 Aug 2008 20:01:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.vintagetractorengineer.com/blog/2008/05/12/shaking-hydraulics-massey-ferguson-35/#comment-3097</guid>
		<description>This is a good description of the stripdown. 
The book says for a Selectamatic you have to break the tractor in two. Not so in the 175.
Used the above and then removed auxilliary connections including the one pipe to the front. 11/16ths short(6") spanner it was . Then moved pump a bit to remove three bolts holding the auxilliary pump.1/2 " they were.

I still found it impossible to get the pump out  so I removed the PTO selector gear and the Oil Filter base and away it came.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is a good description of the stripdown.<br />
The book says for a Selectamatic you have to break the tractor in two. Not so in the 175.<br />
Used the above and then removed auxilliary connections including the one pipe to the front. 11/16ths short(6&#8243;) spanner it was . Then moved pump a bit to remove three bolts holding the auxilliary pump.1/2 &#8221; they were.</p>
<p>I still found it impossible to get the pump out  so I removed the PTO selector gear and the Oil Filter base and away it came.</p>
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		<title>By: The Vintage Tractor Engineer</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagetractorengineer.com/blog/2008/05/12/shaking-hydraulics-massey-ferguson-165/#comment-2758</link>
		<dc:creator>The Vintage Tractor Engineer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jun 2008 15:14:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.vintagetractorengineer.com/blog/2008/05/12/shaking-hydraulics-massey-ferguson-35/#comment-2758</guid>
		<description>Hi Ivo,

The hydraulic top cover should just lift straight off.  It is easier if you take the little cap off and remove the stand pipe first.  If you take the side cover plate off the transmission housing before removing the top cover you can see the arrangement of the levers, for when you come to  putting it back together.

The top cover is heavy so it will need 2 people to lift it.

Our hydraulics DVD that will be releeased in a few weeks time will show you everything you need to know.

Steve</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Ivo,</p>
<p>The hydraulic top cover should just lift straight off.  It is easier if you take the little cap off and remove the stand pipe first.  If you take the side cover plate off the transmission housing before removing the top cover you can see the arrangement of the levers, for when you come to  putting it back together.</p>
<p>The top cover is heavy so it will need 2 people to lift it.</p>
<p>Our hydraulics DVD that will be releeased in a few weeks time will show you everything you need to know.</p>
<p>Steve</p>
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		<title>By: ivo solleder</title>
		<link>http://www.vintagetractorengineer.com/blog/2008/05/12/shaking-hydraulics-massey-ferguson-165/#comment-2747</link>
		<dc:creator>ivo solleder</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Jun 2008 00:06:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.vintagetractorengineer.com/blog/2008/05/12/shaking-hydraulics-massey-ferguson-35/#comment-2747</guid>
		<description>hi, im about to undertake the removal of a hydraulic pump on an early mf35. i have seen lots of pictures and explaniations, but am stuck on disconection of the lever arms.
can i lift the top of the housing off or is there an extra step somewhere.
thank you for any help.

ivo</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hi, im about to undertake the removal of a hydraulic pump on an early mf35. i have seen lots of pictures and explaniations, but am stuck on disconection of the lever arms.<br />
can i lift the top of the housing off or is there an extra step somewhere.<br />
thank you for any help.</p>
<p>ivo</p>
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